Pickled Cherry Blossoms

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As alluded to multiple times this Winter and Spring, we are moving. We are moving next week. Holy Moses. Moving is awful, but moving away from a place you love is worse. I moved to Chicago 13 years ago and love this city. I love Chicago, but once we had kids, our clock started running. Still I love Chicago.

There are infuriating aspects about Chicago, to be sure. It is huge city made up of little burghs with individual personalities all their own. Like people, some of the neighborhoods here are jerkstores and, with others, there are not enough hours in the day to spend with them. It is a city big enough to become lost in, but friendly enough to never feel lost. There is art, green space, and amazing restaurants. My adult life has been spent in the city. Many of my most memorable moments have happened here. Continue reading »

Tare Cured Jowl

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One bowl from my first two gallons of homemade ramen and I was hooked. It was not the best, but it was mine and it put the bug into me. Tinkering on the recipe to improve it, or in some cases make it worse, was a new “hobby”.  From the order of operations to the ratio of bones to water to the time boiled, the process is set up to make it your own, but the part of the process that pleases me the most is the fabrication of the seasoning, the tare. Continue reading »

Smoked Plantain Chorizo

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This is an all too common tale of things that taste good together outside of sausage casing are great when encased together. One of my absolute favorite combinations is chorizo and banana/plantain. The sweet flavors from the fruit goes so well with the deep and piquant flavors of chorizo, a vastly underrated sausage that it is terribly easy to make at home. I happened to have a few plantains on hand and, with the smoker already running, I thought to take it one step further and smoke the plantains.

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Tongue Cecina

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Walking around Logan Square, I spend a lot of time ducking into and out of little mercados. I see things for which I do not have much context, but some reason stick in my mind, even when I may not initially realize it. It was the odd phenomenon of trying to describe something I had seen, what ended up being “cecina”, to my wife without having the words that planted the seed for this project in my mind. There were thin sliced lean cuts of beef marinating in red liquid in the meat case, but I could not remember the name – finally it came to me in the middle of a work meeting. Continue reading »

Toasted Preserved Lemon Salt Cured Bacon

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Twitter again has proven to be a petri dish for ideas. I have been using this salt for four months or so when it was suggested that you might be able to cure meat using preserved lemons. I suggested one better, use the residual salt to actually do the curing. It takes the guess work out of how much to use. Continue reading »

Lamb Neck Terrine with Grapes

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Inspiration and ideas are great things, but without execution, they disappoint. This was an idea from a long time ago, but sloppy execution took it from the must-have-again list to the must-try-again list.

It was last fall, as I tossed a bunch of concord grapes into my brussels sprouts with lamb bacon, when the trigger was made. The concords were roasted with the sprouts and the lamb to where you could get a little bit in each bite. Despite being a huge fan of sprouts, I kept pushing them aside to get bites with only lamb and grapes. It was a combo that was unfamiliar but amazingly good. Continue reading »

Marrow Buns

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In full freezer cleaning mode in advance of an upcoming move, I grabbed the most delicious thing in my freezer door. A cryovac’ed bag of cured bone marrow from Matt Troost at Three Aces (you may remember this ingredient from Valentine’s Day anticuchos). I looked around at what I had and realized that I had some levain left over from making sourdough. At first, I simply thought of making marrow burgers for Sunday Dinner. Continue reading »

Fighting Hunger: One Post at a Time

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Earlier this year, I mentioned reading Martha Bayne’s great article on how the food culture and the hungry are moving in opposite directions. After two nights serving soup at Bayne’s Soup & Bread, I recently read about a cause called “Food Bloggers Against Hunger“. As much as I eschew talking about blogs generally, this blog specifically or even referring to myself as a food blogger, I felt this was a good opportunity to contribute to a cause that I really care about.

You may have read about, or seen press junkets, for a recently released film called “A Place at the Table“, a documentary about families going through issues of food insecurity. APatT looks at hunger in a way that is real without being hyperbolic or falling into the trap of sensationalism. The issue is treated with far more calmness and measured speech than I could do. To me the calm tone opens up the dialogue to action rather than reaction. These are not just people getting squeezed by big Ag or by corporate America. It isn’t just those you see panhandling, those out of work or single parent families that struggle.  It is not just inner city folks or people in rural areas.

Far more people than I realized previously are limited to $3-$4 per day per person for food and no job or family situation is sheltered from hunger. Trying to subsist on that $3-$4 per person per day was the challenge I decided to take up for my family (my wife and I have two little girls). Before doing this myself, I would have speculated that I could come up with a few days worth of inexpensive meals, but there are few items worth considering to which I had not paid much attention. Continue reading »

Oeuf en Jambon

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There is a long circular path on which many of my thoughts travel. After making both giardiniera and xo consomme, I had an idea that making an aspic from both of them which encase an egg would be a delicious and interesting dish. Only once I made them, one suspending cauliflower florets in the aspic and the other peas, eating them never quite appealed. I used tumbers to create the suspension which meant that I had eight ounces of aspic per egg and that was far more oddly flavored jello than I was willing to consume in one sitting. The project went on the pile of posts that seemed like a good idea until I actually did them and goodness left the building.

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