Spreadable Chorizo

Smoked, fermented, and spreadable.

The latest in adapting the nduja process began with these three words typed by a friend.     Before we get to the details, be certain – there are few treats better than body temperature nduja.

Smoked, fermented and spreadable. And spicy. And porky.

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Preserved Hibiscus Buds

It has been months since our trip to Charleston. As mentioned in a post about boiled peanuts, one of the stops we the local farmer’s market. We picked up those green peanuts, and we also picked up a bag of hibiscus buds. The reality of actually having to figure out what to do with them did not hit me until we arrived at home. I tossed some into a salad as both color and flavor – the buds carry a subtle acidic tanginess, but then thought I might buy myself a little time and went into preservation mode. Continue reading

Marrow Onion Jam

If you read enough about food, and I read far too many things about food, certain things begin to stick in your craw. I understand you might still be thinking about your meal again. For the third week in a row your mind is blown? You notice certain writers lean on the same crutch over and over again. You notice phrases like “figured out what men crave”. Continue reading


Late in 2008, we took a trip, or better said, we ran away to Kauai. After a very difficult year, we spent years worth of earned air miles and almost all of our vacation days on a trip where we spent mornings alone on the beach, afternoons driving up and down the North shore, and the evenings drinking cava and eating poke. That is a gross simplification of our trip, but from moment one to the step off of our return flight, it was one of the most restorative periods of my life. Continue reading


We host a dinner party periodically which is actually just a book club to which my wife belongs. Typically those types of groups are simply drinking clubs, but this one adds food and actual books. About a week before book club, I realized my original plan of serving cassoulet had been done before. By me. Last winter. It seems as when the weather grows cold, I cook beans – large pots of beans with sausages and off cuts.

Actually I should have never been surprised. Beans and meats are fantastic and this weather has forced my hand. Only, I am not a repeater. Knowing fabada is a not-so-distant cousin to cassoulet, I figured there must be more cousins. I just needed to look. Continue reading

Pig Head Pozole

There are foods which you go out of your way to eat. A canele from Bad Wolf coffee, churros from Masa Azul, and tots from Nightwood are a few for my family. For me, there are also a few. One is pozole from Butcher & Larder. Driving a half hour for soup is something that requires a certain dedication, but I am nothing short of dedicated about B&L’s pozole (think “Faithfully“). Being short sighted, I never buy more than a quart when Chris and Rob make a batch. With the Chicago weather hovering near zero for basically a whole month, I was left without pozole for most of it. Continue reading

Citrus Kosho

Always wanting to keep current on condiments, I spotted a Twitter post recently showing a photo which looked far less interesting than its name. It looked like a puree of peas, but had a name which indicated something far more sinister. To me, yuzukosho sounds the food equivalent of the sound made when Townshend slams his guitar and when I finally searched for what it was, I realized the name was right on. Continue reading

Pink Peppercorn & Bay Sausage

Usually when I make sausage, I do so thinking of flavors I like together and keep the circle relatively closed. In this case, I made sausage thinking about how I was planning to use them, in a cassoulet, and how I wanted the sausages to season the cassoulet. There are plenty of great flavor combinations in sausages, but I really wanted to add the punchy flavors of bay and peppercorns to the super-rich cassoulet along with the pork drippings themselves and how better to transfer the flavors than by attaching them to pork fat? Continue reading


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