Worcestershire Sauce

Making condiments at home is tricky. Hot sauce, barbecue sauce, vinegar – all can be done better at home with a little tinkering. Ketchup – a total disaster in flavor, cost and mess. Mustard – somewhere in the middle. I had been using a ton of Worchestershire sauce lately and thought making it at home would be worth a try. Continue reading

Barbecue in Brioche

Labor Day has come and gone. Whites are in the closet, but I refuse to put away the smoker. BBQ is a twelve month season, but, as I tend to do, I filled the smoker with ribs and an entire leg of goat to make sure I took advantage of the bag of coal and chunks of wood. This left us with a meal of ribs (and then some) and about seven pounds of smokey, rich goat. As I put all of the goat in the fridge, I was forced to stack  some random fridge goods a top a bag of the goat. When I checked in the next day, all of the gelatin and collagen had then the pulled goat leg like a terrine, but in nearly sausage-ish form. Continue reading

Smoked Beef Tongue

“Italian Beef” Tongue

With a large and growing cookbook collection, I get asked by friends who may not have the same cookbook issues, “How do you choose which book to cook from – much less what to cook from the book you choose?” This has to be a common question. My answer – I will grab a book based on what I have at home or based on what the season is. Sometimes, I will see something online which will push me to get back into a book. When I do find a book, the driving force behind picking a recipe is almost always a new technique or ingredient I want to try. In this case, there was a technique which included boiling beef tongue after smoking it. I was skeptical. Won’t you boil off any smoke flavors? Wouldn’t the other way be better? I had to try it for myself. Continue reading

Bison Liver Gogigui

As noted in a recent post discussing supplementing andouille with lamb’s heart, I happened upon a treasure trove of odd bits while walking through a Wisconsin farmer’s market. In addition to the lamb hearts, I found a pound of bison liver for a dollar. I had no idea what to expect. I figured it would be similar to beef liver and I was concerned with what the animal ate while it is was upright. I had an idea of the answer when I saw the prices of the more desirable cuts, but the grass-fed provenance was confirmed by the farmer, so I picked up the pound. Continue reading


Clockwise from top left: Honey umeboshi from Tokyo, my homemade umeboshi ready to age, Small umeboshi from Kyoto

In early 2013, I picked up a dozen umeboshi for a princely sum to make a batch of pickled cherry blossoms. As i sat in my seat on my flight to Japan, I earmarked umeboshi to bring home. The salted plums are pretty amazing little bombs of flavor. At Nishiki Market in Kyoto, I was on the lookout for umeboshi to bring back to Tokyo then Chicago. We arrived at the tail end of ume season, butas I chowed on takoyaki, my partner saw a vendor who was still selling green ume. Continue reading

Lamb Heart Andouille

A fifteen minute walk through a small-town Wisconsin farmer’s market yielded some of the finest variety meats I have had in some time for prices so low I could not fathom how there was so much to buy. In a state where offal is less flashily portrayed and truly ends up on your grandma’s dinner table rather than on a contrived dish using her as a prop, I was surprised to see offal from seemingly pristinely raised animals being ignored. Even so, there was an old man in traditional Amish garb selling what appeared to be some great lamb. I asked about offal and he brought out what he had. For a couple dollars (literally), I bought every last lamb heart the guy had with him. Then some ground lamb as well to make it worth his while. Continue reading

Smoked Mexican Chorizo

C is for chorizo

A friend’s family has what I understand to be a long-standing annual sausage making appointment on their calendar. While our family has its own traditions I love and appreciate, I can barely help but be jealous of the family sausage party. Making sausage is a process which has not changed much over time and continuing to do it the same way year-in and year-out would seemingly be a great way to connect with older relatives. When he smoked some of the excess Mexican chorizo they made, I was curious why Spanish chorizo was traditionally smoked while smoked Mexican chorizo was completely new to me, so I made some for myself (and the family). Continue reading

Green Coriander Berries

In the summer, I am much happier with my hands in the dirt of a garden than with my feet in a pool. For me, there is something restorative about growing plants whether they yield shade, flowers, or food. With doing so much of my self-restoration on the road this summer, I found myself barefoot in my dad’s garden a few weeks back near a plot of bolted cilantro. Continue reading

Tart Cherry BBQ Sauce

We are ready to be at home. Summer travel is reality for most, but we are sitting on weekend 8 of the last 10 of being out of state/country with one final weekend looking us straight in the face. It might be Thanksgiving before we recover, but the reality is if Wednesday comes around and we have produce from the prior weekend, it has to be put to use. Continue reading

Instant Ramen Cured Egg Yolks

The weeks following our return from Japan proved to be a somewhat rocky re-entry. First, it reminded me how life does not wait when you are away, but rather piles up like the newspapers on your front step. Second, our jet lag combined with our girls’ new middle of the night loneliness made days next to impossible. Finally, after a week of eating better than maybe any other week of my life, what were our options when we got home? (I guess make everything out of koji.)

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