There are so many beautiful books released this fall that I can not afford to buy even half of those I would like to have. The ones I have purchased are lovely, but sometimes the old ugly books, the ones released over thirty years ago remind us of that delicious food is not a recent trend and that snout to tail cooking was not invented in 2005. Continue reading »
For the past three Novembers, I have been bugging my father to get me a full deer to butcher. Oddly, we used to butcher deer together when I was a kid each year, but then it was him both butchering and “butchering” the deer – no care taken to cut the deer into primals – just similarly sized scraps. With the promise of giving him his choice to meats, I asked just to get a whole animal to butcher. Well, not just the butchering opportunity, I wanted a leg. I wanted to make venison ham. This year, I got a leg and I made a ham. Continue reading »
Shocking to most who know how close I am with my family, I have never spent Thanksgiving with my father. While we now switch back and forth between my family and L’s Oklahoma/Texas clan, my family’s Thanksgiving is an epic holiday with over 50 guests, a few state fair winning turkeys, and an amount of sweet potatoes that would floor most of the general public, but my dad, who has been married to my mother for nearly forty years has never attended. He is a hunter and the short season in Wisconsin spans over the Thanksgiving Holiday. Continue reading »
When my parents came down to watch me run a marathon in the beginning of October, my dad brought a bag labeled “venison scrap”. When he handed it to me, he said, “I figured if anyone knew what to do with this, you would.” I was half proud and half horrified, but information that I had in my back pocket made me hopeful. The cuts valued by the people cutting the meat (my father and his cousins) are vastly different than the cuts I love, so chances were good I would get some incredibly flavorful wild venison. Continue reading »
Romance and offal go together like peanut butter and jelly. With Valentine’s Day coming up in a few weeks, I thought that some of you looking for ideas for what to make for the Hallmark Holiday would appreciate this ode to the heart (ha!) that captures the essence of why you should make heart a regular in your dinner rotation.
Over the holidays I made some pickled heart that was a sentimental choice, if a bit off-putting for those who do not already love offal. It was cold and cooked to death. This dish is the opposite with very little funk, taken medium rare, and served in unrecognizable chunks on a skewer – truly the gateway offal. There is no shame in that because we found it to be damned delicious, plain and simple.
Anticuchos are a South American street food made from skewered meat, most traditionally beef heart, marinated, and grilled. There are a few places serving them in Chicago, but none have hit a home run for me as they are cooked past medium rare, which for me is too far for heart. Continue reading »
It is playoff time again. I am not going to say too much about it because I am superstitious, but the Packers are my team and they play today. Last year, the playoff charcuterie of choice was a Wisconsin classic – and a year-end top 3 dish – Braunschweiger made by the Butcher & Larder. I understand this year’s version is in the works, but the Packers game won’t wait, so I took matters into my own hands.
I did not venture into Braunschweiger territory, maybe next week, if applicable, but I did make a batch of kielbasa, another Sconnie classic, and took it one Sconnie level higher by making the sausage from some Wisconsin wild venison harvested by my Sconnie father. In the North Central parts of Wisconsin where my father grew up and still hunts, the late fall butcher offerings nearly always include Northeastern European sausages made from venison scraps acquired by butchering the local deer shot during the two-week hunting season. Kielbasa is an Eastern European sausage usually hailing from Poland or the Ukraine. It is typically smoked and made from beef and pork with heavy garlic flavors. Kielbasa with kraut and potatoes is a popular Sconnie dish in supper clubs and on family tables. Venison kielbasa certainly would not be out of place in the butcher cases in towns like Willard, Marshfield, or Abbotsford. Continue reading »
Growing up in a hyper-traditional family in Wisconsin, we never once spent Christmas the traditional way. We never woke up on Christmas morning and opened gifts. We spent ours in a car traveling between my father’s extended family and my mother’s. To us, we did not know the difference. Similarly, until we were teens, we did not know that pickled tongue and pickled heart were not what everybody ate on Christmas Eve. Coming up on twenty years from becoming that teenager, I have come full circle after acquiring a few venison hearts from my father. Continue reading »
As many of the regular visitors know, my father is a fanatical hunter and fisherman. While a.) getting dragged into the woods at 4 AM on cold, November mornings as a 12 year old and b.)hearing a story that took place long after I opted out of hunting about making my younger sister eat a ham sandwich at 7 AM so that my father could place the offal from the field dressed buck in the sandwich bag sound less than glamorous, the benefits of having a family hunter are obvious. Continue reading »
After returning to San Francisco from Napa/Sonoma two weekends ago, we still had a few days left on vacation. Over the past few years, I have read extensively about Chris Cosentino‘s two ventures – his salumeria, Boccalone, and his restaurant, Incanto - and, on our last full day there, we were planning on visiting both. Continue reading »
With a final pound of venison with the label of “Jerky Only”, a jar full of bacon fat, and a desire to not start another jar of bacon fat, I had an idea of how to turn this extraordinary lean and well worked muscle into something delicious. Continue reading »