Labor Day has come and gone. Whites are in the closet, but I refuse to put away the smoker. BBQ is a twelve month season, but, as I tend to do, I filled the smoker with ribs and an entire leg of goat to make sure I took advantage of the bag of coal and chunks of wood. This left us with a meal of ribs (and then some) and about seven pounds of smokey, rich goat. As I put all of the goat in the fridge, I was forced to stack some random fridge goods a top a bag of the goat. When I checked in the next day, all of the gelatin and collagen had then the pulled goat leg like a terrine, but in nearly sausage-ish form. Continue reading
With Memorial Day giving me an extra day to finish planting our garden and making the last preparations for summer, I also had time to fire up the smoker and try smoking not only a new cut of meat, but also a new beast altogether. On the last Monday in May, we ate a leg of beast – to be more specific, a leg of goat. Well, not all of it. Continue reading
In the second of three installations of ham experiments made by hamming non-pork legs, I present mole cured goat ham. This ham was inspired by Goat Boy himself, Jonathan Zaragoza. Zaragoza helms Masa Azul on Diversey just West of California in Chicago, but has been in the goat business since he was a zygote. He is part of the Zaragoza family who runs my favorite restaurant in Chicago. While Jonathan has expanded his reach past birria, he still brings the goat from time to time and when he does, I make sure I am there. Continue reading
Given that we’d be out of the house a lot over the next few weeks, I thought it might make sense to make some shelf stable snacks to bring along with us. An exercise in utility turned into a little of an odd and ends charcuterie project coming from multiple points of inspiration.
First, I had no fat back, but I had slabs of cured lardo. Last year, while in Charleston, I had some salumi studded with cured lardo at Cypress. Figuring the goal here was to keep a shelf stable product, why not start with lardo that was already there? Continue reading
Maybe I seek them out, but over the past few years, I have crossed paths with some of the country’s finest charcuterie makers. Every one of them have been amazingly nice and very generous with their time and knowledge. From Rob Levitt to Craig Deihl to Michael Ruhlman to Brian Polcyn to Chris Cosentino, each of the meat heroes has gone out of their way to make me feel less of a silly fan boy (which I am). Continue reading
Sometime, things just come together in strange and great ways. A few weeks ago, I started planning a trip to South Pulaski Avenue to Birrieria Zaragoza for a bunch of their Birria Tatemada. Zaragoza is one of my favorite restaurants in all of Chicago and I have been pushing visitors to fly in to nearby Midway airport instead of, nearby to us, O’Hare, but I haven’t been there for far too long. I was planning on picking up my mother-in-law at Midway Airport and doing my waiting over a steaming plate of the amazing goat stew and fresh salsa at Zaragoza, but alas her flight would arrive at O’Hare and I would be left goat-less. Continue reading