The hardest parts of making turducken (and the reason they are so spectacular) are not even present in this taré. That is not lost on me. Taré is typically roasted chicken-infused soy sauce/mirin/sake cocktail and can be found seasoning ramen or coating yakitori in the final moments of cooking. David Chang refers to it as “kind of like BBQ sauce”. Turducken is a bird, deboned stuffed with cornbread/crayfish stuffing, then stuffed in another deboned bird and repeated inside another deboned bird. This wonderful monstrosity is then roasted and sliced. This is not that. Continue reading
It was damned cold outside, I was home alone for a weekend and with giant cans of bodega hominy staring me in the face, I was ready for an afternoon cooking pozole. Looking for something new, I paged through Diana Kennedy’s “The Art of Mexican Cooking’ I found a recipe for Pozole Verde and I glommed onto it. I modified it to my tastes and what I had on time. Even as I modified the recipe by adding some smoked turkey parts, the final results could not have been different from what I expected.
Odd ramen needs more spotlight like I need another hole in the head. Around Chicago where a year ago ramen was nowhere, crafty ramen is hard to avoid. For a guy with quarts of frozen ramen broth in my chest freezer, I need to find other uses.
I had accidentally made roasted squash/shoyu ramen soup, which was pretty delicious with a beguiling flavor when all you expect is squash with maybe a little curry. With a couple turkey legs, I wondered if you could take a specific soup, a heavily seasoned, bone broth like tonkotsu with enough gelatin to outwiggle even the most lurid canned cranberry sauce, and use it as a braising medium. Hell, you can do it with stock, beer, wine, or tomatoes, so why not ramen? I used pho to braise beef years ago. And why not others like chili? Continue reading
Life has been busier than normal and the time I spend in the kitchen, one of my favorite ways to unwind, has been inconsistent. In an effort to simplify and refocus my kitchen hobby, I went back to an ingredient, ham, and a preparation, terrine, I feel both comfortable with and inspired by. Continue reading
We moved out of the city almost a year and a half ago. It seems like ages ago, but really has not been. However, what we found in the burbs from a dining perspective can be described most nicely as “limited”. Coming from Chicago, where we could stumble down the street for any number of great things to eat and having dozens of great places to deliver food to us, it was a shock. Since moving, we’ve adjusted. We have bought a second car. My garden has grown exponentially. But, some adjustments will never be made. We usually travel into the city to eat out and go in to do so as frequently as we went out when we lived in the city. Continue reading
Duck is delicious. It has a rich and complex flavor. It should make great sausage. However, I have made duck sausages multiple times and never once liked them. Every time, the classic flavors I paired with them taste too sweet – maybe they are classics because their sweetness balance the richness of the duck, but either way, they are not suitable as sausage flavors. When I happened upon a stewing duck at a farmer’s market, I grabbed it and stuffed in the freezer. Continue reading
What, you have never heard of Schwartenwurst (formerly hautwurst, see below)? Do not worry a bit because it is made up. With football season upon us, I wanted to make a batch of bratwurst, but make the standard recipe a little more “mine”
The start of this sausage is a basic bratwurst recipe, but adds an addition is ground bacon rind. The rind has gone through the curing process and then was smoked. Finally it was boiled until it softened and then was ground into the sausage mixture. The skin would bring flavor, but also, the texture and juiciness would be improved with the addition of pork skin. Continue reading
Labor Day has come and gone. Whites are in the closet, but I refuse to put away the smoker. BBQ is a twelve month season, but, as I tend to do, I filled the smoker with ribs and an entire leg of goat to make sure I took advantage of the bag of coal and chunks of wood. This left us with a meal of ribs (and then some) and about seven pounds of smokey, rich goat. As I put all of the goat in the fridge, I was forced to stack some random fridge goods a top a bag of the goat. When I checked in the next day, all of the gelatin and collagen had then the pulled goat leg like a terrine, but in nearly sausage-ish form. Continue reading
With a large and growing cookbook collection, I get asked by friends who may not have the same cookbook issues, “How do you choose which book to cook from – much less what to cook from the book you choose?” This has to be a common question. My answer – I will grab a book based on what I have at home or based on what the season is. Sometimes, I will see something online which will push me to get back into a book. When I do find a book, the driving force behind picking a recipe is almost always a new technique or ingredient I want to try. In this case, there was a technique which included boiling beef tongue after smoking it. I was skeptical. Won’t you boil off any smoke flavors? Wouldn’t the other way be better? I had to try it for myself. Continue reading
As noted in a recent post discussing supplementing andouille with lamb’s heart, I happened upon a treasure trove of odd bits while walking through a Wisconsin farmer’s market. In addition to the lamb hearts, I found a pound of bison liver for a dollar. I had no idea what to expect. I figured it would be similar to beef liver and I was concerned with what the animal ate while it is was upright. I had an idea of the answer when I saw the prices of the more desirable cuts, but the grass-fed provenance was confirmed by the farmer, so I picked up the pound. Continue reading