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People say that bacon is a trend and, in my opinion, part of it is. Bacon, by itself, is probably more of a hanger on of the surge in gourmet interests than anything else. People have always loved bacon though. The fringe movement that includes bacon salt (redundant), bacon vodka (mismatched), and baconnaise (disgusting) gives the simple pleasure of crispy meat a bad name. A positive is that, as the often too small t-shirt reads, bacon is a gateway meat.
For me, the gateway led to Guanciale.
Guanciale is a cured and dried jowl from a pig. The fat is more lucious and plentiful than on the pork belly and there is no smoke. Dishes that you have likely eaten that included (or should have included) guanciale are amatriciana and carbonara. The taste is of pure salty pork funk, but nothing that is going to completely dominate a dish.
The best part about guanciale is that it is dead simple to make given that you have patience and a cool area of your house. The hardest part is finding a jowl worthy of the wait. If you take one thing from this post, let it be that you now know how to satisfy your jowl needs. Email LouisJohn at Slagel Farms.
Guanciale Cure
Based on recipe from Charcuterie
Mix ingredients and dredge jowl in cure. Seal in a plastic bag and put in nonreactive bowl in the fridge, flipping daily for a week. Once a week has passed, rinse the jowl, pat it dry and weigh the jowl (write down the weight in grams). Using a metal skewer poke a hole about an inch from the top and run butchers twine through it. Tie tightly and hang the jowl in a cool place in your house for 2 months or so.
At the two month mark, weigh the jowl again. Once it weighs 70% of what it did before hanging, it is ready. Be patient you will be rewarded.
Spaghetti Carbonara
Adapted from Mario Batali’s Molto Italiano
Bring one gallon of water to a boil. Season water and drop in pasta. Cook per the directions on the box. Reserve 1/8 cup pasta water. Drain.
Slice guanciale into cubes and put in hot pan with olive oil until crisp.
Add reserved water and heat, then add pasta, egg whites, parmesean, and black pepper to taste.
Serve piping hot with a yolk on top of the pasta. Stir and enjoy.







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Beauuuutiful. I wish I’d weighed my guanciale that I have hanging before I hung it; that’s a great tip. I can’t WAIT ’til mine is ready
Thanks for reading. Weighing it was something that I learned after opening a roll of pancetta before it was fully dried. Still delicious, but not quite on point. Next time, I just weighed it and now it is habit. I’d love to see pictures when yours is ready. Out of curiosity, are you using pink salt in your cure?
Nope, no pink salt this time around. I’ll be writing a post about making this first guanciale over at http://butchersapprentice.wordpress.com soon, but in the meantime: I have a curing `environment’ rather than an actual curing chamber, and the humidity is lower than I think is optimal. However, from all I’ve read so far, guanciale is a particularly forgiving bit of charcuterie, and I’m hoping that using my nose and regular squeezing will tell me when it’s ready-ish.
Still, I can’t wait to have a *real* curing chamber one of these days!
I’ve noticed that the length of hanging time varies quite a bit between guanciale makers. Polcyn & Ruhlman suggest a relatively short range of 1-3 weeks, while you and Jason Molinari each suggest quite a bit longer. I’d be very interested in hearing your thoughts on this, anytime you’ve got a moment.
I am in the same boat with an unheated part of our basement. It stay about 58 degrees, but the humidity, like yours, is low. One thing that I have done is have a bucket of water that I keep in it to regulate the humidity.
The only reason that I have advocated for longer drying time is that the first time that I made it, when I weighed it, it hadn’t lost enough mass according to my scale. I picked up some guanciale from a charcutier to test the texture vs. mine and it was clear that it was not ready yet.
While I trust the recipe and Ruhlman/Polcyn implicitly, the numbers don’t lie.
Thanks for your thoughts! Also, thanks for being my first subscriber
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