Soy Pickled Chard Stems

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After turning collard stems into a really fantastic giardiniera, I was taken with using part of vegetables that are more typically discarded. For the last year or so, I have been peeling and eating broccoli and cauliflower stems raw like carrots or celery, typically with homemade hummus. Their crunch is their biggest appeal and the feeling that you are maximizing the value of expensive produce makes that crunch even better.

Another favorite has been replacing fennel bulbs with the tough stalks using Linda Ziedrich’s brine that includes orange rind and juice and white wine vinegar. While I never understood grocery stores selling fennel by the pound and including the regularly discarded stalks at nearly half of the weight, these sweet and tart fennel stalks never last past day 3 and are nearly perfect with salty cheese or charcuterie. It was not until the giardiniera though that I have gone off the menu and started creating new pickles from the discard-able veggie bits. While not a new idea or re-conceptualization, this is nose-to-tail cooking for vegetables. Continue reading »

Qawarma and Recreating a Dish

One of the benefits of keeping up with Twitter is you catch interesting side conversations between two folks who you follow. There are likely dozens and dozens of them that I miss, but one that I did not was between two authors and experts that I respect greatly, Annisa Helou and Jennifer McLagan regarding fat sheep tails and the Lebanese dish made from them called Qawarma.

As a sidenote, let this serve as first notice of Jennifer McLagan’s event in Chicago at Butcher & Larder on March 16. There will be more information forthcoming, but clear the date and let me know if you’d like to attend.

There is little to no information on Qawarma out there, but what I could find, Qawarma is a preserved confit of lamb tails. There is not much else out there, but when I read the conversation, I wanted in. The following weekend while shopping for weekly meat, I inquired about lamb tails and was greeted with the following tail. Continue reading »

Happy Valentine’s Day — Hearts, Hearts, Everywhere!!

As we have done over the past four or five Valentine’s Days, my wife and I have retired from the restaurant dinner scene with a special dinner at home. Even if we had not had children over that same time, we likely would have made the move. The Valentine’s Day crowd makes the brunch crowd look like gourmands by comparison, which is really saying something, and we didn’t like dealing with exasperated servers or some of the step downs in menu and step ups in prices that we saw. We could go out whenever and save frustration by doing our thing in the comforts of home on days like Valentine’s or Mother’s days. Continue reading »

Blood Sausage – Le Charcutier Anglais

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There are those barriers that you do not know are there, but they inspire silly excuses so you never need to confront them. For me, I liked blood sausage, but never loved it*. As a result, I never ventured into making my own. However, it was not until I picked up a copy of the Le Charcutier Anglais and looked through it for the quintessential English charcuterie to make that I realized that it was not a lack of taste for blood sausage that kept me from making blood sausage, but rather that working with blood would be a difficult task for me. Continue reading »

Low Country Giardiniera

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Recently a staple of traditional Chicago cuisine was featured in the New York Times. Giardiniera, featured here in 2010, started as an Italian Beef, Italian Sausage, and Combo sandwich condiment, but bled into pizza – it is my favorite topping at Pequod’s, even more recently drifted into the white tablecloth dining scene, and finally New York recognized it (only a step away from coopting it). There were many reactions to seeing the feature from Chicago food folk, one of which was that it was curious timing given none of the vegetables featured in the pickled condiment are in season anywhere near New York or Chicago. The comment made be think about what was available recently which led me where things are still growing, it led me South. Continue reading »

Collard Green Kimchi and the Big Jong Il


In a combination of crazy wanderlust through Southern foodways and an almost Portlandia-worthy desire to lacto-ferment every vegetable that I buy, I put together this kimchi of collards. It really was not that wild of a thought as collards are the same species as cabbage, the more traditionally used brassica in kimchi, but I thought it creative especially when used as a seasoning to an impromptu encased meat that we have been affectionately referring to as the Big Jong Il. Continue reading »

Venison Anticuchos

Romance and offal go together like peanut butter and jelly. With Valentine’s Day coming up in a few weeks, I thought that some of you looking for ideas for what to make for the Hallmark Holiday would appreciate this ode to the heart (ha!) that captures the essence of why you should make heart a regular in your dinner rotation.

Over the holidays I made some pickled heart that was a sentimental choice, if a bit off-putting for those who do not already love offal. It was cold and cooked to death. This dish is the opposite with very little funk, taken medium rare, and served in unrecognizable chunks on a skewer – truly the gateway offal. There is no shame in that because we found it to be damned delicious, plain and simple.

Anticuchos are a South American street food made from skewered meat, most traditionally beef heart, marinated, and grilled. There are a few places serving them in Chicago, but none have hit a home run for me as they are cooked past medium rare, which for me is too far for heart. Continue reading »

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Like running, some of these blog projects are sprints and other are marathons. Last Saturday, serendipitously a project that I had started in early fall was finally ready for consumption on the same day that I finished my first half marathon (in the snow and sub-freezing temperatures no less). While the running project requires far more perseverance than patience, the pride is really no less great when the results surprise you in such a good way. Especially since, for me, being patient has always been more difficult than being willful and like the half marathon as compared to a 5k, this is a more advanced project, but certainly handle-able with the right preparation. Continue reading »

Introducing Butcher’s Cuts: The Chuck Flap

It is with a heavy heart that I write this post. The project had started as experimental meat preparation with a cut of beef that rarely makes it past the grinder, the chuck flap. Between acquisition of this really nice cut of beef, preparation of the beef, and writing of the post, the owner of the ranch at which the grass fed cow was raised, Frank Morgan of Q7 Ranch in Marengo, IL, passed away suddenly. I did not know Frank, but I had grown to love his work from navels to shanks to neck and now to the chuck flap and all things in between.  My family’s sympathies and condolences go to Frank’s family and loved ones. 

As happens when you have a butcher that you know and trust, when I walked into Butcher and Larder last week, Rob approached me with a cut of meat that I had not seen before. As last year with the belly chop, lamb neck, beef neck bones, and most recently, the mutton neck, there are things that Rob has suggested that are not commonly used parts of the animal that would not fall into meat curing or offal related dishes, but rather butcher’s cuts. At first I was hesitant to blog about these because I was worried about losing the blog’s focus, but the more that I thought about it, the more I wanted to feature these types of projects. After all, the real focus on the blog has evolved from bacon making and tasting to meat curing and ice cream making to DIY production and consumption of local food that flies under the radar. We will give it a shot and see how it goes. Please give feedback as you see fit. Continue reading »

Roasted Mutton Neck a la Collins Anderson

Last winter, I ventured into the neck territory of cuisine with a great amount of deliciousness and last week alluded to the neck again. I had acquired the neck attached to the mutton’s head made into a terrine and went back to the lamb post to read up how I cooked the younger neck, but I wanted to switch up the cooking method. While I usually detest terms like “crowdsourcing”, a reader commented about his experiences cooking lamb necks at Incanto and provided a synopsis of a how to.

As Incanto is a wonderland for my tastes and Collins was nice enough to lead me down the path, I “crowdsourced” the hell out of the mutton neck. While it is not customary for me to detail weeknight dinners, I wanted to start a new feature on this blog with cooking “butcher’s cuts” as an example of how having a great butcher will open your eyes to new and delicious meals. I would describe butcher’s cuts as a cut that is not typically found shrink wrapped at the supermarket or even in the case at your Whole Foods. Think of it this way, ten years ago, you would have never found pork belly, lamb breast, or short ribs in the grocery case, but yesterday I walked past all three in the same case at the Kingsbury Whole Foods. Continue reading »

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